Using a table saw for long cut?

I'm using a table saw for the first time. I am building a deck railing that will require a long 7 foot cut at a diagnole angle down a 2';X';8'; piece of wood. Can I use a table saw to make this cut? Do I have to remove the kickback protector to do it? Seems the wood will strike the backside of this about 12 inches in. Also it will be hanging off the end of the table several feet to achive the 6-7 foot cut. any saftey tips on how to best do this? Thanks!Using a table saw for long cut?
This is not a good cut to attempt on your first use of a table saw. Can be very risky.

If you want to attempt it, practice on some small blocks, maybe a foot long before you attempt the long cut.Using a table saw for long cut?
You should have someone hold the other end up so the cut will be more accurate.
I work with wood, but I would carefully think this one through,sounds like your in for an accident if you don't. There are roller stands that can help hold the wood up,I think this might be a two person job. Please be carefull,OK?
get some kind of stand and will not be a problem



just remember 1 thing



BLOOD WILL CAUSE THE SAW TO RUST



a helper is good if they know what they are doing but are dangerous if they don't
If your new to using a tablesaw I would use a straight-edge tacked, or clamped to the board and make the cut with a circular saw. The possibility for kick-back on a tablesaw making this cut is high. You need outfeed support,hold-downs, featherboard and a push-stick to make a safe cut. Do not use a helper on the outfeed side any movement from side to side could cause kick-back.
I would recommend that you not use a table saw for this cut, purely because you are new to a table saw. I'm with Steven K on this although I would use a Jigsaw freehand and then plane or belt-sand the edge to size.



If you desperately feel the need to use your table saw, this is the way I would do it. You need a straight piece of wood 3/4'; x 6'; x 8' which you nail or screw to the handrail across the diagonal, leaving 6'; overhang at each end. This piece of wood is going to run against the fence. Buy yourself a roller support, it's not worth trying to make one as they cost next to nothing. Do not use a helper, they are never on the same page as you and the smallest deviation from the fence will cause problems. Make sure the blade is sharp, you want this to cut without any resistance, the harder you have to work to make the cut the more likely you are to make a mistake. Set the blade depth so half of the highest tooth is showing above the wood. With your template against the fence, make the cut.



Riving knives and blade guards are a personal preference, I take mine off because I feel better when I can see where my soft pink bits are in relation to the blade.



Hope this helps, it's seems straight forward to me but I've been doing this for what seems like forever.