We have a hutch that's a very deep,pretty cherry color and I'd rather like to do it in the same tone (right now it's a very dark walnut finish). It also has a side that's loose-but I think a screw would fix that,wouldn't it?
=) It's just such a pretty table. I would love you guys' help and I appreciate it SO much. Thank you!How do I strip and refinish a table?
I would strongly recommend you using product called Citustrip. You can purchase it at Home Depot, Walmart, etc.
It is a paint / varnish remover in a spray can form and has hardly an odor at all. You can use it in the house (open a window).
All you have to do is spray, wait 30 mins... then the paint bubbles off in about 30 mins. No need to scrap at all!
After you ';wipe'; the bubbled paint / varnish, you only need to do a light sand.
To stain... after you buy your stain (again I would recommend Home Depot) test a little bit on the BACK of the furniture. Remember it gets darker as it dries.
I prefer staining with a clean dry cloth... just make sure you apply evenly.
Good luck!How do I strip and refinish a table?
When fixing the loos part of the table, you mensioned a screw, make sure you use the same kind of fastners that were originally used, in order not to modify the original look. make sure that what ever you use is not obvious.
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How do I strip and refinish a table?
First, take all of your clothes off very slowly.
Next, refinish the table.
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Everyone mentions ';HD'; in their responses, but I've never had good luck with them. The people working there don't care, and even if they did they don't know anything.
Better for you if you find a small neighborhood hardware store. Ask for the oldest guy there, and he won't let you down.
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after using citristrip, make sure to clean up the ';goo'; with mineral spirits, the stripper works well, but is very messy! the mineral spirits will wipe away all the old stain, varnish, etc...then you may sand and proceed. I also recommend wood conditioner prior to staining. good luck!
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first you take off your shirt...
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If the wood is cherry avoid staining and get Deft or it's equivalent. I do not stain unless I am working with pine or poplar. Check out sites like www.rockler.com for hardware and finishes.
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RICHARD IS RIGHT. When you go to The Home Depot they don't care and none of their employees know anything about their stuff. Lowes is better.
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If the table is flat, you can try D A sanding, its quick and you get quality.
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You get it drunk and undress it?
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I restore furniture for a living. I almost never use strip-per and sanding to remove the old finish; it destroys the patina of old wood. I use Formby's or Howard's Restore-a-Finish. It dissolves the old finish while not destoying the wood's character. Use a wipe-on polyeurethane to finish the table.
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i agree with megstube, howards restore-a-finish is great
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Megstube is the way I refinish antiques also if the old finish is really varnish. It leaves the old patina and most of the color.I sometimes also rub some danish oil before the polyurethane.Try the Formby on a small inconspicious place .
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you can strip for me..haha, sorry, i'm drunk
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Ralaissm is right about stripping. Home Depo is great at helping you find products and they'll even show you how to use them. As for the loose side, wood glue works wonder. Just don't be messy with it.
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How do you strip and finish a table?
Usually you buy it a few drinks, one thing leads to another...
first of all you start by taking off your clothes very slowly to the beat of a seductive tune then you proceed sand the table down and apply the stain last. However, if you want to keep the value of the table then you need to check and see if it is an antique first, before stripping at all.
Buy a commercial varnish/paint stripper for wood. Apply and follow directions as listed by the mfg. Sand using a 200 grit sandpaper until smooth, smooth, smooth.
Re-stain in the cherry color you desire, again following the mfg's instructions.
Sanding is the KEY. Take lots of time in sanding until your piece is absolutly perfect.
Try a product by Savogran, it's called ';Strypeze'; works well and is a paste so it will cling to your vertical pieces like the legs. This might take a couple times to remove the varnish %26amp;urathane, your lucky your choosing a cherry finish because by going with a darker finish I don't think you'll have to sand every bit of stain out of it. Once stripped use a good palm sander and start off with a 100 grit paper and finish with 150 grit then stain it your cherry. I've found that minwax stain is the worst product to use, they now skimp on their pigment so I've found ZAR stains and products to be the best. Once you've gotten your stain to some what match your hutch then start with the poly urethane at least 3 light coats and sand with 220 grit paper in between coats followed by using a tack cloth also to remove dust from each sanding, for the best table top I recommend 5 coats of urethane, Good luck Les the painter P.S those citrus based strippers will take forever and go to a real paint store for good results
If your trying to get a perfect match to your hutch I'd recomend a professional, and even he won't give you a guarentee. The best way is to sand and sand some more. Start with a harsh grit like 100 and work your way to higher numbers. 150, 200, and 220 Next, wipe everything down with a tack cloth, fill the wood, stain the wood (test for about the right shade on a hidden area and compare to your huch in the lightsource of where your hutch is.) and Varnish.
I have basically furnished my house and the homes of both of my children with furniture that would have been headed for the trash bin. When I go into an antique store, I do not look for the good stuff, I look for things that need help.
You can use any one of the myriad of strippers out there, but follow instructions carefully. I would not use any lye based strippers, but generally those are only available to those who do tank stripping professionally.
You simply apply the stripper and wait for the paint or varnish to bubble up. You can then push it off with either a metal or, better, a plastic putty knife. Make sure that what you push off does not end up on the cement in the dryway, it has a tendency to stay there, so put a vinyl drop cloth of some thickness under it.
What you can't get off with the putty knife, get off with a coarse steel wool. You might have to do two coats, but with varnish, y ou don't have as much trouble as with paints.
What I do after I have reached a point where it needs to be cleaned off is to wipe it down with laquer thinner.
Start sanding. I normally start with a 100 grit or 150 grit (I guess I would recommend the 150) and sand in the direction of the grain. If you have an electric sander, don't use the ones that go round, use a flat bed 1/4 sheet or 1/2 sheet sander. After you have it about where you want it, then go to a less abrasive sandpaper, perhaps about a 250 or something. If y ou want, after that, you can use still a higher number of sand paper. If you do not have an electric sander, and they are cheap, you can get a nice rubber block from 3M that holds the sandpaper to it with nails within the block. If you can't find one of those, just tack a piece of sandpaper on a chunk of 2x4 and use that. Sand the legs with the grain and if there are any intricate turnings, you might have to sand them around, but the finer grit papers will remove the sanding marks.
For ease, y ou can use a Minwax stain, but I don't like them. I use an oil penetrating stain which is hard to find. Minwax has a sealer in it that makes it difficult to add another coat to make it darker. I wipe mine on with one rag and wipe it off with a dry rag. You can brush it and use a dry rag after it has achieved the color you want.
I don't like varnish, but that is probably your best option. Everything else likes varnish, dust, bugs, or anything else that drifts out of the air. Varnish takes too long to dry for me - about 6-8 hours,s o I use spray laquer - not the spray cans. If you have no experience, don't try it. Don't put the varnish on so that it is globby, brush it out with a high quality bristle brush. Try not to use a nylon brush. Feather the varnish out to get it smooth.
If I use varnish, I would put on at least two coats, sanding between coats. Then when the last coat is dry, take 0000 steel wool and rub it down with the grain. that will leave a satin sheen finish on it. If you want a glossy finish, after the steel wool, go to an auto parts store and buy some of the finest Macquires auto rubbing compound and apply that, rubbing with the grain.
I would use an electric hand sander.It will take less time to get the old varnish off.Than use a fine grade of sandpaper for the finishing touches.
Very Carefully...
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